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Darmadilla 

Mar-15-2007 09:38

reply t0 9760- if I type phrase in the Search box- ex: tumbled marble- it basically brings up a google listing of 4" Ask the Tile Man" links. If I click on any of these, I go into a page of streams which don't necessarily have anything to do with the search- or we just get no responses for things we know ar there.

Dear DARMADILLA: The search fields that are actually on the “AsktheTileman” page are different than the smaller search in the left navigation. The Small search box in the left navigation is for the entire site and not specific to the TILEMAN section. All users in the TILEMAN section should use the main Q&A search on the TileMan page to search the questions and answers. Again, the small search box in the navigation searches the entire Ceramic-Tile.com website.

Darmadilla 

Mar-14-2007 09:18

Hopefully, my last questions! Are non-glazed tumbled marble tiles acceptable for shower floor installation? Also, I have been told there is now a spray sealer available which can go over tile and grout lines, and evaporates quickly with a long term durability. Would this be good over the tumbled Marble? Thanks agian.

Dear DARMADILLA: Yes, the sealer would be fine for a porous tumbled marble. No, tumbled marble for your shower floor would not be my recommendation. It is used but that doesn't make it the best choice. You should use a fully vitirfied (low absorption, low porosity) tile or mosaic. I would look for a 4"x4" unglazed rectified or mounted porcelain.... failing this, fallback on 3"x3" or 2"x2" porcelain mosaic.

Ikydo 

Mar-13-2007 09:54

ikydo dear tile man what are the causes of delay in tile construction in public projects

Dear IKYDO: It's always the who, what, when and where of material selections and supply... before and during the project. Suppliers are the key, not just the products. Architects and designers don't give as much thought to sources as they do aesthetic selections.... if they do, it's usually very cursory. Even the sources often have sources... you can quote me on that. Reliability of delivery of a special order product that takes months to import. The architects and designers should have a secondary project purchasing element or supply management that visits determined source suppliers regularly and reviews from the beginning and ongoing all supply issues, identifying problems and circumventing choices for logistic concerns. Money, time, labor, etc. can be saved if planning and followup are diligent on supply. it always seems to be a scramble... not getting it ordered on time, not receiving the exact material.... hell, you could fly a purchaser around the world, visiting local and if necessary overseas sources to ensure scheuled loading, quality, quality, units match need, colour, etc. and it would cost 1 to 5% of losses that COMMONLY occur on larger construction projects.

Darmadilla 

Mar-12-2007 14:38

We are definitely Newbies and are very thankful for this site. There is mention of Tile-redi and Bonsal ProForm in old responses. Tile-redi has received lax support, and Proform cannot be found after hours of web searches. Is the Dix One Liner a system you would recommend for a careful beginner? It seems less complicated than the Schluter. Many thanks again.

Dear DARMADILLA: I think there was some conflict over the ProForm Trademark between Noble and Bonsal. I would use either the Dix One Liner or the Schluter System myself. These are familiar and I am confident of their rssults. Any Newbie or Neophyte can learn proper use and installation. Both companies provide copious detailed information for a beginner.

tiledude 

Mar-12-2007 00:42

I am looking to get some tile laid. I have received some estimates for a 600 square foot job. It will require some carpet tucking, besides that everything is standard. I was wondering if the estimate of 2200 dollars for labor is an appropriate estimate, or is it too much? Also the tile is porcelain, or does that matter? Thanks

Dear TILEDUDE: The quote sounds fine. Yes, porcelain is a bit more difficult. Don't forget products like these... ...CLICK HERE.

Darmadilla 

Mar-10-2007 20:00

Walk-in shower 30" x 60", no door, with shower dam on one 60" side which will support a 36" fixed glass panel. What is the absolute minimum width we need for the shower dam? And, our potential installer is telling me I must use 2" tiles on shower floor. I've already bought 8" which I wanted to use for walls and floors. I acknowledge the "sloping" requirements for shower. What is the largest size I could use?

Dear DARMADILLA: Really, it wouldn't be up to me to contradict an installer that is there eye-balling the situation. Also, 30" with placement of the drain centred, the 2" to MAX. 4" assessment is likely the best way to go.... if the drain is not on-centre / 30" width, the 2" would be absolutely best choice.

handeegirl 

Mar-10-2007 09:05

Hi Tileman: We've tiled our bedroom and we were not the neatest in the process. We have grout all over the top of the tiles and having a hard time getting it off. Yes my husband wanted to let it dry first. Help! I wanted to clean each tile as he went along but nooooooo.

Dear HANDEEGIRL: This is now a test of your character. Be kind and identify that you are as much to blame as is he. If you knew better the proper method, there would have been no limit to your assertiveness and the conclusion would have been better.... you failed each other in knowledge and impatience to start without knowing enough. Grout is not designed to come off easily. In this case your floor area must be considered... not incomplete but DAMAGED. At this point, damaging it a bit more while attempting to improve the appearance is the best option we have. In this case your allies will be: 1/ Mechanical scrapers to remove as much of the remaining grout off of the surface as possible ...2/ A stripper and grout remover to try effecting and removing the grout residues. 3/ Sulfamic acid crystals... normally, I do NOT recommend acid solutions. This will be your second cleaning option, follow the manufacturer's recommendations. It is the best solution, if you have only left a light haze on the surface.... any more grout, than just a light haze, you have serious problems. 4/ Water, in both cases, to neutralize and clean your floor. 5/ The joints may whiten and the colour bleach out from them, when the acid attacks the haze. There are now grout stains that can darken your grout effectively... again, follow the manufacturer's instructions. A couple of stains commonly available come from "Bostik" and "Custom Building Products". You have my condolences. "There is a certain amount of kindness, just as there is a certain amount of light ... We cast a shadow on something wherever we stand, and it is no good moving from place to place to save things; because the shadow follows us. Choose a place where you won't do harm--yes, choose a place where you won't do very much harm, and stand in it for all you are worth, facing the sunshine." (E. M. Forester) "There is no need for temples, no need for complicated philosophies. My brain and my heart are my temples; my philosophy is kindness." (The Dalai Lama)

Erasrhedd 

Mar-09-2007 12:32

My daughter is considering buying a home in which ceramic tile has been installed over the original hardwood flooring in the dining room. She wants to remove the tile and restore the hardwood floor. I'm not finding much information that indicates this is a great idea. Sounds like removing the tile is hard enough and but that getting rid of the mastic is darn near impossible. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Dear ERASRHEDD: You do realize this is a site that promotes ceramic tile? Anyway, if the tile was installed directly overtop of the hardwood floor it likely will come off by itself. Hardwood is not an acceptable substrate / underlayment. If they did sheet overtop of it with exterior grade plywood, you shouldn't have a mastic problem. aside from that, it is NOT recommended to use mastic for adhering floor tiles, only mortar. So, there are a couple of technical reasons the tile should remove itself, before you remove it.

Bob 

Mar-08-2007 11:59

Hi tileman, I have two layers of 1/2' plywood on my floor with a luan layer and then vinal. I was told I could put Durarock right over the vinal and then tile. The vinal would also act as a vapor barrier. Is this an acceptable practice and will it work?

Dear BOB: If you need a vapour barrier, no it would not be the recommendation. If you are wondering if this combination is accepted for a floor composition - i.e. providing acceptable underlayment for a ceramic tile application... yes, it can. If you need something that can provide you with both, I would alternatively use this membrane / underlayment ...CLICK HERE , rather than 'Durarock'.

marydavis   

Mar-08-2007 09:09

Our toliet overflowed after a bad reset of it after the tile job. Efflorescence appeared. Does this mean I should re-apply the sealer and what caution should I take when floor needs a damp mop? Thank you

Dear MARYDAVIS: This is quite normal and expected, whenever water penetrates the surface, it needs to again escape and the water acts as a carrier for salts from the cementitious grout, mortar and sometimes even the concrete subfloor. Only if this occurs repeatedly over a prolonged period is it a problem. Any effloresence remaining on the surface now should be mechanically removed. If only a small residue, this should take little effort. Then reseal again. A damp (not wet) mopping should be no problem. Sometimes floors may have highly alkaline tiles like some of the older extruded quarry clays or Mexican Saltillo... or the water source is highly alkaline....in such a case, efflorescence can occur repeatedly, in small amounts but is really not an issue for integrity of the installation. It is simply a light surface residue to remove. Once all the subflooring is dry again, as water and salts finish wicking to the surface after your overflowing toilet, you should not have a problem.

Marcwsu 

Mar-07-2007 10:52

Hi TileMan... I have a few questions and did find good info on the site. We are putting in Daltile Capella 18x18 field tile in most of the 1st floor of our house. It is a polished porcelain(I know, I tried to talk my wife out of it). We will be using a 2 part thinset due to the size of the tile and strength i believe we need Can I seal the tile before I lay it? The subfloor system is fully engineered and was designed for a ceramic installation. No more that a 15 foot span @ 16oc with the TJI230. Being that we are placing an 18x18 tile over the 3/4 birch subfloor, should we consider an underlayment. I hate working with cement board. I have seen a product from Halex, I didn't know if you have an opinion on this. Do you have any recommedations for a good thinset product. I have seen different brands and do not see much of a difference. Thanks for the help!

Dear MARCWSU: You can seal it before you install, as a grout release, but it is very unforgiving and you need to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Why are you considering a two part thinset... all the polymer-enhanced thinsets will be fine. I would look to those from both Mapei and Custom Building Products... whichever is most locally available to you, they are both quality suppliers. With that size tile it is recommended to have 1/2" eliptical or half-moon trowel, not just 1/4"x1/4" square notch. Yes, yo should consider a sheet underlayment. Didn't know much about the Halex Plywood Underlayment, but it looks good, from what they detail... "Halex Plywood Underlayment Special Features: .... Surface Knots - Knots in the surface of the plywood underlayment can cause discoloration or they can fall out and create a surface void that is clearly visible beneath resilient flooring. To prevent these problems, all surface knots should be plugged. Traditionally, these plugs can be made of plastic, rosin-type materials, or solid wood. Plastic and rosin-type materials, however, can yellow with age and spread the yellowing through the flooring. This is why Halex uses only solid wood plugs on the face of our panels – guaranteeing that the plugged areas will not be visible through the final flooring. Type of Plywood - Traditional underlayment plywoods such as luaun, douglas fir, and poplar may be economical, but they can also cause discoloration or be prone to wood indentation because of their natural properties. Halex Underlayment, however, is Baltic Birch (also called Arctic Birch) plywood, a wood that is known for its light color, strength, hardness, and durability. It is available in 6mm and 9mm thicknesses, with 5 or 7 plies, respectively. Number of Plies - Traditional Underlayment comes in 3 plies, and in thicknesses as thin as 5.0mm. In traditional 3 ply plywood, irregularities in only one ply such as knots, voids or bowing, can cause the entire panel to crack, break, or change shape. To prevent these issues, Halex plywood underlayment comes in a minimum thickness of 6mm and in 5 ply and 7 ply constructions, adding strength and durability, and virtually eliminating the risk of damage due to the irregularity in a single ply. Grade of Glue - Exterior grade phenolic glue is considered to be the minimum grade of glue used in plywood underlayment for resilient flooring installations. Interior glue grades may appear satisfactory, but will delaminate in the presence of prolonged moisture or severe weather conditions. Halex plywood underlayment exterior grade glue, passes the APA boil test, and will not delaminate throughout the life of the floor. Surface Texture - Many plywood underlayment manufacturers offer only a sanded face in their underlayment panels, believing that levelness and smoothness are only important factors on the surface. Halex, however, sands both the face and the back of our plywood underlayment panels, ensuring the smoothest, most level panel possible for the smoothest, most level resilient floor possible. Core - Core voids, most often caused by open knots or delamination, can pose a major problem in plywood underlayment. Undetectable to the eye, they can cause the plywood underlayment to give under the pressure of high heeled shoes, furniture or appliances, and ruin a resilient floor. Halex plywood underlayment panels, however, are specified to have only solid plies throughout, from top to bottom. Quality Assured / Ultrasonic Testing - Each panel of Halex plywood underlayment is ultrasonically tested to ensure that every panel is solid throughout and free from delamination. Individual Inspection - After the ultrasound, each panel of Halex plywood underlayment undergoes a rigorous inspection for sawing and sanding irregularities, and visible knots and voids before it is wrapped in protective packaging for safe shipment. Lifetime Warranty - Halex offers a Lifetime warranty, guaranteeing each panel of plywood underlayment will support resilient flooring without discoloration, delamination, or other manufacturing defects."

not so handy man 

Mar-06-2007 20:55

We want to put ceramic tile in our kitchen and dining room but have been warned that it will crack. What extra precautions can be made to ensure that newly laid ceramic tile will not crack?

Dear NOT SO HANDY MAN: There's no reason for it to crack. I think that advice has come from some crack pot. :-) I have it in my own kitchen and dinning room... have gone through a couple of teenagers and it looks unchanged since I laid it in 1985.... actually, I have never heard of this worry from anyone. You just need to lay it to correct standards, ensuring that you have a clean, rigid, flat and sound subfloor. There are many industry sources to provide you with detailed information, books, videos, etc. Here are some of the examples from our sister site.... ...CLICK HERE

Scott 

Mar-06-2007 14:04

I tiled my kitchen floor yesterday and I had a couple quick questions before I grout: - Is 18-24 hours a good enough period to wait between laying tile and grouting? - After I grout, how long before I can put on the sealer? - Between the time of grouting and sealing, can I move things back into my kitchen and walk around on it, or should i wait until its been sealed? Thanks!

Dear SCOTT: Yes, 18-24 hours is fine. Normally, sealers are 7 to 10 days later. Remember to follow the manufacturers recommendations and 72 hour damp cure your joints, before you move things back and walk around. You will be amaxed how this densifies and strengthens your joints. My kitchen was never sealed, just mixed by hand and damp cured... it looks as great as it did in 1985 (Also, read #8600 search ID)

ms. 

Mar-05-2007 11:27

I would like to adhere mosaic tiles to my one piece boring solid white bathroom sink / vanity..this includes the actual bowl. I realise that I would probably have to reset the drain. What would be the best adhesive and grout to use?

Dear MS.: You have no real choices. It is necessary to use 100% solids epoxy mortar and grout c/w filler. You will need to mix up smaller batches at a time.

nursemoony 

Mar-03-2007 19:04

tileman, i have an older home here in michigan with an all white tile shower/tub. my tile needs to be regrouted and i was wondering about how much something like that costs to be done professionally and what should i look for when and if i hire someone to do it?

Dear NURSEMOONY: You need to see that they have the right tool. You could even do it yourself... just need the right power tool to have Manufactured by FEIN ... ...SEE HERE 'SuperCut - Construction Saw / 18,000 per minute oscillatiing blade. Eats up grout like it was paper mache without harming the tiles. Great for laminate, door jambs, tile-setter for grout removal / tile replacement, caulking removal, etc. Otherwise, the job is worth somewhere between $500. to $1000.

arliss martin 

Mar-02-2007 21:30

I have removed an old cabinet that was adjacent to wall tiles and have found tiles that are not lining up evenly. The cabinet was covering the imperfect tiles. I can not find matching tiles, so removing the ones that are shorther or longer than the rest is not an option. Is there any way to trim the tiles without removing them from the wall?

Dear ARLISS MARTIN: You can always grind through tiles using continuous rim circular 4" diamond blade and grinder... available from all equipment rental companies. Of course, if a simple Dremel or RotoZip tool is handier, you can use either of these units. I use angle grinders regularly. Should be warned about how they instanly eat up stone or ceramic. It requires the same level of attention as chain saw work. Use all safety precautions... no shirttails hanging out, use leather gloves, goggles, ear muffs, and dust mask. Always use two hands and happy grinding.

cfstrout 

Mar-01-2007 16:36

I'm looking for tile for a 6 year old house. It says on the box... Platinum Keramik Orlando Peach 12 K 40cm x 40cm Made in indonesia Thanks!!

Dear CFSTROUT: There are many suppliers including Home Depot for products from this manufacturer ... but you're NOT supposed to ask such questions here... Why not ask them? PT. Platinum Ceramics Industry is one of the leading ceramic tiles manufacturer in Indonesia. Adopting the latest and most advanced technology, PT Platinum Ceramics Industry produces and markets a comprehensive range of products consisting of wall tiles, floor tiles, decorative tiles with many range of sizes. Street, No.: Ambengan 1 / O Tel: +62-31-5312358 State: -east Fax: +62-31-5312362 Zip: 60272 City: Surabaya Country: Indonesia Website: ...SEE HERE

Dobie 

Mar-01-2007 12:16

I have a large area from kitchen to foyer that is 15 yr old white tile. I want to get an updated look without pulling it out and saw a pricess on Holmes that showed Durock Polished Concrete that was layed over existing tile. Looked terrific on film and pics, but is this a process that any tile contractor in Denver could accomplish? Is it common? Is it complicated? Sure would sava a ton of money and energy to not have to pull out the old stuff. Thanks.

Dear DOBIE: It is all common and used daily... even in Denver. :-) However, is it too complicated for contractors in Denver?, I'm not sure. JUST KIDDING!!! I don't think you want the word "POLISHED" in your question. Durock is one of several Cementitious Backerboard Units or Cement backer Underlayment (CBU) ... it is designed as precast or preformed board allowing you to lay overtop of subflooring or substrates to provide strength and improved bonding. The best of these is 'HardiBacker Board' with their 1/4" thick board providing twice the compressive and flexural strength of 1/2" competitor cement backerboards. ...SEE HERE. Better than this, you will find Schluter Systems 'Ditra' matting... easier to work with and providing the ideal solution for your specific needs. ... SEE HERE